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HOTELS are rated not by level of luxury as with general travel guides, but in practical terms as they would apply to a beer hunter - a good place to flop on a budget.
From your arrival in Aalst - or any of the many destinations covered in the Good Beer Guide to Belgium and Holland - to the last moments before you fall asleep, you can use the book to fashion your stay. The trains station to look for, what to expect of your surroundings and - of course - what you need to know about the most note-worthy cafés.
TRAIN STATION: Aalst
ABOUT THE TOWN:
Large market town (pop. 76,000) on the river Dender half way between Ghent and Brussels. A good base for touring and an interesting place in its own right, with more than its fair share of beer cafés. The most famous building is the restored 13th century Schepenhuis (aldermen's house), with its 15th century belfry. St Martinus' church is worth a look too. Aalst is the centre for Belgium's smaller hop-growing area, though this attracts no breweries at present. The deliciously absurd annual three-day carnival ends on Shrove Tuesday.
HOTEL TIPS:
Station ***, 14 Albert Liénartstraat (tel: 053 775820; fax: 053 781469)
Lange Muur *, 13 Stationsplein (tel: 053 773746; fax: 053 785390)
PUBS:
BABBELAER
3 Klapstraat
Five minutes' walk from the Grote Markt, off Pontstraat, a hundred metres out of town from St. Martinus' church. A strange mix of styles from religious to front parlour, ending up Burgundian. Framed art on the walls. Delightfully well-behaved, atmospheric place. Only 52 beers but strong on traditional gueuzes, regional beers and better trappists. Tapas menu means there are fifteen different small-plate snacks on demand (to 01.00, later at weekends), including house sausage sold by the centimetre. Named after a Flemish prehistoric monster.
CLOSED SUNDAY |
| Wed | 18.00 onwards |
| Other days | 16.00 onwards |
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BERGENHOF
4 Stationsplein
A well managed, increasingly smart but still simple café opposite the station. Stocks over 60 beers including most of the Trappist ales and gueuzes, plus some nice finds for the area. Tiny snacks only. Sells ornate picture frames. May close in the first half of June.
CLOSED MONDAY |
| Sun | 13.00 - 17.00. |
| Other days | 10.00 onwards |
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CAPUCIENTJE
99 Kapucienenlaan
On the ring road, eight hundred metres clockwise from the Fox (below). A smart high-ceilinged, stylish corner house attracting a reassuringly middle-aged crowd to drink beer and natter. The list of over 100 is strong on regional brews from all over Belgium. Food stretches to mattetaart and dry sausage. Small terrace out the front. Large function room for hire and the back.
Opening times: not known
FOX
60 Parklaan
Not convenient for the town but easily accessible from the motorway. The roads to and from the E40 (A10) all converge on a massive traffic roundabout. This supposedly English-style pub (don't be put off) is fifty metres down the ring road, anti-clockwise. A smart, long, cosmopolitan saloon bar that is growing in stature. 60 beers include Dolle Brouwers. Fake beams, fake handpulls but good quality and popular single plate meals. Families welcome to eat.
CLOSED MONDAY |
| Tue - Fri | 11.00 - 02.00 |
| Sat | 16.00 - 04.00 |
| Sun | 14.00 - 01.00 |
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KASTANJEHOF
12 Keizersplein
Opposite police HQ, beyond Hopmarkt from Grote Markt. Somehow if they did not tell you, you could guess that this definitively lived-in long bar has been run by Yvette and Winnie since 1981. Collections of things gather in corners or hang from the ceiling. Like cowbells and enamel Coca-Cola ashtrays. There is a composite picture of James Dean, Marilyn Monroe and Humphrey Bogart being served at a bar by Elvis Presley. Lots of potted plants and monster sized goldfish. Above the bar are fifty pewter tankards. 70 beers from a safe list with several good regionals. No food.
CLOSED SUNDAY |
| Sat | 06.30 onwards |
| Mon - Fri | 08.00 onwards |
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VERDIEP
36 De Ridderstraat
From the Grote Markt take the main pedestrianised shopping street Kattestraat then first left. Large, multi-level, open-plan factory conversion with cosy areas. One of Belgium's more interesting café designs, including a splendid marble waterwall. The name is a pun on the words for deep thought and the stories of a building. Good list of gueuze and kriek in a shrinking list of around 80 beers. Increasingly serious cooking, taking over most of the second storey, until 23.00 (01.00 Fri & Sat).
CLOSED TUESDAY & WEDNESDAY |
| Mon & Thu | 19.00 onwards |
| Other days | 18.00 onwards |
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Other Aalst cafés:
The Hoed (6 Korte Nieuwstraat) is a chatting and singing café with a shortish but interesting beer list. The Witte Leeuw (60 Korte Zoutstraat) is expanding its beer range gradually. The Heiligen Geest (22 Kerkstraat), a traditional bar with a 16th century cellar, is developing a beery interest too.
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